A warm and sunny morning. The road from Rexburg to Salmon is over 160 miles and we only managed 60-some yesterday, leaving us with a lot of ground left to cover. It’s a gentle ascent in the morning followed by many miles of slight downhill.
Right before reaching the 7200 foot pass it started raining – there was no break at the top – we just kept pedaling to try and outrun the storm. A strong tailwind kicked up and brought us to the town of Leodore, home of the only store and motel on this lonely road.
It turns out that a restaurant does exist in town! It’s run by a very friendly and very talkative grandmother who tells us her life story of growing up in Washington state, moving to Idaho twenty-four years ago and buying and running this restaurant and bar. The Continental Divide Trail runs in the mountains parallel to this road and so hikers often come into town to resupply and have a meal. Lots of opinions are dispensed.
Back on the road and our tailwind from the morning had disappeared but it was another two thousand feet of downhill to Salmon so progress was still rapid. The road follows the Lemhi river down through the valley, crossing it a multitude of times. Many of the bridges crossing the river are under construction and one lane of the road is closed so we wait patiently at each one for the temporary traffic light to turn green.
The day gets very hot and we take breaks wherever we can find shade. Every few miles there are interpretive signs on the roadside explaining how the Lewis and Clark expedition came through here and met Sacajawea, and recalling other tales of the early settlers and their conflicts with the natives.
After a long sweaty afternoon we finally arrive in the town of Salmon. The Salmon river is wide and runs swiftly through the center of town. Because this is the largest town we’ve seen in a while I was assume it’d be doing well economically, but there are many shuttered businesses on main street. The restaurants that are still open seem to have lots of business though – we get dinner at a brewery and spend the evening planning for the days ahead.
Notes from Donald: “The tailwind going to Leodore was awesome and so was the corned beef at the restaurant. Also cool was the pair of bald eagles that flew over us on the way to said corned beef.”
Today’s mileage: 95 miles
Total: 1733 miles
Beautiful cloud photos! My dad told stories about his summers spent near Salmon, ID, working on his uncle’s sheep ranch. And, I assume you are traveling near more forests now!
I’ve been reading and vicariously enjoying your adventure. My wife and kids are also listening in wonder as I share snippets from the site! Continued safe and beautiful travels!
We did see lots of sheep near Salmon, ID! Do we know where the sheep ranch was?
Good to hear from you, Jake!